BUTTONHOLES
The Buttonhole Stitch was invented to bind the raw edges of a buttonhole, hence the name. Although most sewers make their buttonholes by machine, a hand-sewn buttonhole has the advantage that is has a little "purl" which reinforces the edge.

To make a hand-sewn buttonhole, first mark the buttonhole on your fabric (step 1). Next, reinforce the buttonhole by basting all the way around the buttonhole (step 2). In this drawing, the basting is shown in a different color for clarity; in reality, you should baste with the same thread that you're using for the buttonhole stitches. Starting at one end, stitch the Buttonhole Stitch along the length of the buttonhole. At the end, tack with three Satin Stitches (step 3). Last, stitch the Buttonhole Stitch along the other side, and finish with three more Satin Stitches.

After the buttonhole is all stitched, carefully cut a slit between the two rows of stitching. Use fine scissors, and be extremely careful not to cut the stitching.
Step 1:


Step 2:


Step 3:


Finished Buttonhole:
Hints:
  • To start the stitch, do not knot the thread. Instead, leave a 1" loose tail, and as you make the first few stitches, catch the tail under the stitching on the back.
  • To tie off, weave the thread under the stitches on the back side of the fabric (do not knot).
  • For an heirloom garment made of light-weight fabric, use fine white thread (#80 weight) for your buttonhole. If your garment is made from a heavier fabric, try using embroidery floss, maybe even in a contrasting color.
  • The length of the buttonhole depends on the diameter of the button. It should be just a little bit longer than the button is wide.
  • The buttonhole should be aligned with the direction that the button is pulled; that is, on a vertical opening (the back of a dress or the front of a coat) the buttonholes should be horizontal. On a shoulder strap, the buttonholes should be vertical.
  • Place the buttonhole so that when the center of the button is on the end of the buttonhole, the button lies in the middle of the placket. The distance between the edge of the button and the edge of the garment should be the width of the button. In other words, start the buttonhole a little less the 1 1/2 times the width of the button away from the edge of the fabric.