CABLE STITCH
This stitch, along with the Trellis Stitch, is the most common stitch used in English Smocking. It is well worth learning to do it the right way.

The needle always enters and exits the pleat along the stitching line, 1/4 - 1/3 of the way down into the pleat. Only stitch through one pleat at a time - the stitch covers two pleats. Pull the stitch taut by pulling to the left, and guide the stitch to lie on the line with your finger or thumb.

Smockers use the terms "Up Cable" and "Down Cable" to refer to the position of the thread relative to the needle. An "Up Cable" is really a single Outline Stitch, and a "Down Cable" is a single Stem Stitch.
"Up" Cable Stitch:


"Down" Cable Stitch:
Hints:
  • As you pull the stitch tight, position the thread along the stitching line with your finger or thumb. Also, pull the thread to the left, not up or away from the fabric. If you don't stitch this way, you are likely to end up with a row of "U"s, looking like this :

    Wrong :


  • The Cable Stitch is usually worked with multiple strands of thread. Take care that the threads do not become twisted or braided. You want the strands to lie parallel on the fabric, so that the strands form a flat ribbon.



    When the strands are not parallel, the effect of the stitch is more like a string instead of a ribbon. The stitch is not as pretty, and, because it is not as full, it does not cover as well.

    Wrong:


    You can keep the strands flat and untwisted by stroking the stitch with your thumb as you pull the stitch taut. Every few stitches, inspect the unstitched thread and separate and untwist the strands as necessary.

  • It is important to keep the needle horizontal along the stitching line. The stitches look like they lie above and below the line, but that is due to the stitches pushing each other up and down, not to the positioning of the needle. If you angle the needle, or if you stitch above or below the line, you will end up with a row like this :

    Wrong:


  • To make the stitch look fuller, use more strands in the needle.
  • It's a common mistake for beginners to skip pleats, or to stitch through two pleats when making the stitch. Take care to use one new pleat per stitch.
  • To start a row of Cable Stitches, bring the needle up at the bottom of the valley between the first two pleats of the row. Insert the needle through the first pleat, from right to left. You're now in position to start the first stitch.
  • To end a row of Cable Stitches, finish the last stitch as normal, with the thread coming out the left side of the last pleat. Plunge the needle directly down into the valley between the last two pleats. Tie off in the back.
Uses:
  • Horizontal border
  • Anchoring border for top and bottom of a smocked insert, and for the top of a Bishop design. The Cable Stitch is less elastic than the Trellis Stitch, and so it is a good stitch to use to stabilize the flairing of the smocked piece.
  • Center stitch for Curved Smocking
  • Turning stitch for Geometric Smocking.
  • Backsmocking
  • Picture Smocking
  • Four-Cable Flowerette
  • Six-Cable Flowerette
When smocking with ribbon, sew the Cable Stitch the same way as with thread, but take care that the ribbon does not become twisted.
Hints:
  • Remove any twist from the ribbon before pulling the stitch. It helps to support the stitch with a heavy needle or stiletto. to keep the twist out.
  • Use 2mm silk ribbon. Any wider, and it's too difficult to stitch with (and the stitch doesn't look right, anyway). Don't try to use satin ribbon, or some other kind of ribbon that's heavy or stiff.
You can use the Cable Stitch to add beads or seed pearls to your smocking. Simply string the bead on the needle before making the stitch. The bead will naturally nestle between the two pleats. This technique is expecially lovely when stitching a Four-Cable Flowerette. Make sure you use a needle small enough to pass through the hole of the bead.